Ford Falcon Common Problems: What to Do
The Ford Falcon has a long history on Australian roads, but the AU, BA, and earlier EA/EF/EL series each have well-documented weak points that tend to show up as these cars age. Whether you're running a SOHC Intech, the BTR automatic, or the early Barra in the BA, knowing what to watch for will save you money and keep you off the side of the road.
What Causes It
- Cooling system failures are the number one killer on AU and earlier Falcons. The Intech 4.0L runs hot and the plastic coolant overflow tanks crack with age, leading to gradual loss that goes unnoticed until the head gasket cooks
- BTR automatic transmission wear is extremely common on AU XR6s. Harsh shifts, slipping between 2nd and 3rd, and delayed engagement from park are all signs the valve body or bands are worn. Fluid that hasn't been serviced since the factory makes this worse fast
- Rear strut and spring deterioration is near-universal on any AU or BA with high kilometres. The stock rear struts are soft from new and degrade quickly. Monroe GT Sport or Koni Sport are the go-to replacements used by most Falcon owners
- Idle control valve (ICV) carbon buildup on SOHC Intech engines causes rough idle, stalling at lights, and hunting at operating temperature. The ICV sits on the throttle body and blocks up over time
- Timing chain tensioner rattle on cold starts is common on higher-kilometre SOHC engines. A few seconds of rattle on first start that clears up is the early warning sign
- Power steering rack and hose leaks show up around 200,000km on AU and BA models. Look for fluid weeping from the rack boots or the high-pressure hose near the firewall
What to Do Right Now
- Check your coolant level cold before every trip if your car is running rough or you notice any steam from the engine bay. Top up with the correct premixed coolant and have the system pressure tested if it keeps dropping
- Check the BTR transmission fluid on the AU if shifts feel soft or delayed. The fluid should be bright red and not smell burnt. If it's dark or smells like it's cooked, get a service done before it turns into a rebuild
- Listen on cold start for more than a second or two of chain rattle. If it persists past 10-15 seconds, don't keep driving it until you've had the tensioner inspected
- Inspect the rear struts by pushing down on each corner of the car. More than two bounces means the struts are gone and your tyres are wearing unevenly
- Clean or replace the ICV if you're getting a rough idle. It's a straightforward DIY job with a can of throttle body cleaner on most SOHC Falcons
When It's Serious
Pull over and stop driving immediately if your temperature gauge climbs into the red or you see white steam from the engine bay. An overheating Falcon will crack a head or blow the head gasket within minutes of reaching critical temperature, and on the Intech this often means a warped head. The repair bill goes from a few hundred dollars to several thousand the moment you keep driving through it.
On the BTR automatic, a total loss of drive or a bang followed by no movement means internal damage has already occurred. Driving on it will destroy the planetary gear set. Get it towed and don't attempt to limp it to a workshop.